This an easy hat pattern, but sometimes such a thing is hard to find.

I made it for my son, Pete, who is very particular in his taste. Like most knitters I fear that my efforts will end up on the rag pile, so on one of his visits home I asked him for specific instructions on just exactly what sort of hat he would like to wear.

The result was two versions, one in butterscotch, a gorgeous golden shade of chunky, soft Blue Sky Worsted (worn by Polly, above), the other in an evergreen shade of Koigu Kersti, a classic dk. They both have long bands of ribbing that can be folded back watch cap style.

The circumference of both hats is 33cm[13"] in 2/2 rib unstretched and will fit a medium-large head 48-56cm [19-22"]

Here are the instructions.

POLLY’S HAT:

Materials

Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Hand Dyes; 1 skein  2022-butterscotch

Size 5mm [US8]  40cm circular needles

Size 5.5mm double pointed needles (DPNs)

tapestry needle

stitch marker

Cast on 72 sts on smaller needle. Join in round, taking care not to twist. Place marker.

Work K2, P2 rib for 16cm.

Change to DPNs and work 9cm in stst (all rounds knit).

Begin decreases:

Round 1: *K6, k2tog; repeat from * to end. –63 sts.

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit

Rnd 3: *K5, k2tog; rep from * to end. –54 sts.

Rnd 5: *K4, k2tog; rep from * to end. –45 sts.

Rnd 7:*K3, k2tog; rep from * to end. –36 sts.

Rnd 9: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end. –27sts.

Rnd 11: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to end. –18 sts.

Rnd 13: *K2tog; rep from * to end. –9 sts.

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches. Pull tight and with tapestry needle, weave in ends on WS of hat.

PETE’S HAT

Worn above, with the ribbing folded back twice.

Koigu Kersti; 1 skein shade K1510

Size 3.75mm [US5]  40cm circular needles

Size 4mm[US6] double pointed needles

tapestry needle

stitch marker

Cast on 104 sts on smaller needle. Join in round, taking care not to twist. Place marker.

Work K2, P2 rib for 16cm.

Change to DPNs and work 9cm in stst (all rounds knit).

Begin decreases:

Round 1: *K6, k2tog; repeat from * to end. –91sts.

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit

Rnd 3: *K5, k2tog; rep from * to end. –78 sts.

Rnd 5: *K4, k2tog; rep from * to end. –65 sts.

Rnd 7:*K3, k2tog; rep from * to end. –52 sts.

Rnd 9: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end. –39 sts.

Rnd 11: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to end. –26 sts.

Rnd 13: *K2tog; rep from * to end.–13 sts.

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches.  Pull tight and with tapestry needle weave in ends on WS of hat.

Tomorrow I leave on my trip to TNNA in Ohio and then New York. Shipping for South Seas Knitting will continue while I’m away. In the meantime, happy knitting!

Isn’t is satisfying to make things for your house? You get to enjoy the making, the using, and  you have a daily reminder of all those hours you lovingly stitched something that you’ll have forever.

It used to be my ambition to have a completely home made house.  Not being much good with hammer and nail I’ve scaled that down to having a home made item in each room. At this point I might have reached my goal but that won’t stop me because I’m addicted to making things.

Here are some non-knitted things I made for my garden in Santa Monica. I left them there for the new owner (a twinge of regret permeates these words as I type) and on visits, I walk past it and see those little bits if myself that are still there no matter who the owner is.

These pots were made following an inspirational few days in Barcelona (the plates were already broken – I just couldn’t bear to part with them). My Antonio Gaudi phase.

Pebble pattern on my bedroom patio, surrounded by gardenias. Mmmmm.

Perhaps it’s because the hot summer days disappeared all of a sudden last week, the days shortened and it’s altogether an autumn-ish feeling around here, that I embarked on making my own little bit of sunshine to cover the dull grey tiles in the bathroom.

I’ve always loved rag or hooked rugs and have had it in mind for a long time to make a knitted version. The moment arrived (funny how something that’s been brewing for years decides, for no particular reason, to slide itself onto your knitting needles) so I spent my evenings this week making this colourful  folk art-ish mat while watching episodes of Midsomer Murders, the irresistible modern day Hercule Poirot-style mystery set in an ultra picturesque English village brimming with dozens of typically eccentric characters, and this delicious documentary about Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton. Now that’s what I call living!

Please don’t hate me for owning a large stash of the scrumptious, soft Blue Sky Cotton, left over from various projects.  I just can’t stop using this yarn, as much for its softness as its gorgeous colour palette.

For extra sumptuousness I used double strands throughout.

My mat weighs 550g, so you’d need that much yarn to make one the same size. I used seven colours (700g) but you could make up your own colour scheme, perhaps using only 2 or 3 colours.

Here are some  more subdued (but no less beautiful) combinations I’m considering for my next mat.

81-sand & 604-aloe

80-bone & 81-sand

and now, to Mel’s helpful hint of the week, told to me by a Los Angeles gent who seemed to be an expert in these matters:

If you’re trying to sell your house, instead of stashing towels or keeping them in a cupboard, roll a few and put them on display. It gives the visitor (or potential buyer) a feeling that they’ll always be on vacation or at a spa if they buy your house!

P.S. I like the idea of making this mat much bigger with leftover wool and felting it. It would be beautiful in a child’s room or as a hearth rug.

The recipe  for my Folk-ish Mat is over in the free pattern menu.

This week, more of what will be keeping me warm in NYC this Thanksgiving.

Recently I was browsing, as you do, the Fashion Week shows far and wide (New Zealand, Paris, London, Milan, NY, etc).

Flicking through the Burberry show I noticed that what we knitters have been calling a cowl, i.e. a tube which can be worn around the neck and spares us the dingle-dangliness of a scarf but still keep our necks warm, is now called a snood. I thought a snood was something like a hair net, and it may well be, but come to think of it, a cowl can be worn on the head anyway, so snood it is. It has a slightly British, elementary-my-dear-Watson sort of ring to it so I’m going with it.

I made this one with a drawstring to pull it close to my neck should I encounter a bitter wind in NYC and in case it gets a bit slouchy after a few wearings. It’s threaded through the eyelets across the back.

The stitch pattern is easy and very attractive. It uses a multiple of 4 stitches. If you want to make it into one of the oversized snoods/cowls that seem to be in fashion this season, you could cast on 136 stitches and make it longer. This would require extra yarn but would be stunning.

So here it is. Happy knitting!

–Mel

Like the Little Engine, I’ve had an uphill climb with crochet.

That part of my education was neglected, so I busied myself with knitting and forgot to learn.

A few years ago, necessity inspired me to take a lesson, just so I could add the finishing touches to this lovely camisole from Solveig Heisdal’s Poetry In Stitches, my favourite knitting book.

Alas, simple edgings are where my crochet skills stalled.

The impetus to make Avocado Beret came with a ticket to New York to spend Thanksgiving with my daughter. It’s been too long since I’ve seen her and I miss her terribly. So, midnight at the computer, and I’ve bought a ticket and a new coat.

There’s nothing like a trip to the Big City to justify new clothes. One doesn’t want to feel like a country bumpkin, does one? I don’t suit beanies (who does, really, except children and skaters?) so I decided on a French-style beret.

My first attempt was far from chic. It was too big, too loose and too floppy. That may be because I made the fatal mistake of “winging it”. Naughty me, taking a short cut, which always turns out to be the long way round.

Note to knitters: crochet is easier to unravel than knitting– no nerve-jangling rounds of live stitches, just one loop to pick up.

Back at the drawing board, I made a plan based on a knitted circle.

I used one hank of Cascade 220 2429-Irelande Heather, and a 4mm hook.

Here’s how I made it:

Begin with 8 chains. Join these into a circle with a slip stitch. Work a single crochet twice into these first 8 chains. Then work a plain round of sc. Next round, work a sc twice into each second crochet then each third, and so on to each 11th, working a plain round between increase rounds. Work 3 rounds straight in sc. Begin to decrease by skipping each 11th sc for the first decrease round, followed by a plain round, and so on down to each 8th, ending with 56 single crochets. Slip stitch 56 to finish.

“The Little Engine That Could” is a classic  children’s story about the joy of achievement that comes with perseverance. I can’t think of a better feeling.

This week I had the urge to make a useful and pretty gift for my friend Charlotte’s birthday. She’s a sculptor who makes large concrete and wood objects, so fussy and frilly wouldn’t do. She is a girl’s girl, though, and likes to spoil herself on occasion.
We all agree that hand made gifts are best. But something wearable requires a degree of mind reading, or at least close acquaintance, to know what looks good on whom and whether it will go with everything else in the wardrobe. Then there’s who’s allergic to what and she who wears nothing but neutrals when you secretly think she would do well to add some hot pink. There’s not much to fret about with a cheerful table runner or tea cozy.

For Charlotte, I decided on a festive two-tone bath mitt accompanied by a bar of beautiful orange scented soap.
The mitt is made in an easy slip stitch with Blue Sky Skinny Cotton which is ultra soft and smooshy. It’s organic, too, and coloured with low impact dyes, so lovely next to skin. The slip stitch pattern gives it a cozy double thickness.
Less than half of each hank is used, so you could make a matching mitt, with the colours in reverse. This is really a fast and easy project. It took me about three hours.
Scroll down for the pattern……

Here’s a second colourway that would look fresh and bathroomy, 303-Sprout and 301-Glacier.

Before I go, to those who have enquired about the pattern for “Swing”, it’s almost ready. Sorry it’s taken so long. In the interests of accuracy I’m having the sizes checked, then my friend Xanthe will place it in our pattern template. So many steps from the pot to the table!

Happy knitting!
–Mel

FIESTA BATH MITT

MATERIALS

• Blue Sky Alpacas Skinny Cotton; 100% organically grown cotton; 65g; 137metres; 1 hank of 317- Coral (A) and 1 hank of 30-Birch (B)
• Size 4.0mm[US6] double pointed needles
• Size 3.75mm [F/5] crochet hook (optional)
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle

MEASUREMENTS: 17.5cm[7"] by 13cm [5.25"]

GAUGE: 23 stitches per 10cm in stitch pattern.

HOW TO
With A, cast on 60 sts.  Distribute around 3 dpns. Join in round, taking care not to twist. Place marker for beginning of the round.
Rnd 1 & 2: With A, knit.

Rnd 3: With yarn in back and B, *slip 1 purlwise,  [k, p, k] into the next stitch; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 4: With yarn in front and B, *slip 1 purlwise, p3tog; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 5 & 6: With A, knit.

Rnd 7: With yarn in back and B, *[k, p, k] into the next stitch, slip 1 purlwise; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 8: With yarn in front and B, * p3tog,  slip 1 purlwise; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 8 rnds until mitt is desired length ending with Rnd 2 or 6.

Place 30 stitches on each of 2 needles and graft together using A.

Alternately, you could join them by using the three-needle bind off.

For a crochet loop: with B, sc 60, turn, and sc 60.

As an alternative to crochet, make a 2-stitch, 20cm long I-cord [see tutorial on making I-cord]

Sew loop in place at cast on edge.

How satisfying is it to make something lovely with materials that were gathering dust in your cupboard?

The pillow inner, I confess, was made by an upholsterer after a fruitless search for one ready made. Some things are best left to professionals. The hexagons were knitted one evening while watching Sally Potter’s Orlando. Hands up those who love Tilda Swinton! (I may have to watch it again sans tricoter since the costumes are exquisite and I’m quite sure I missed some important details while concentrating on my hexagons)
The linen fabric was left over from a bolt David once found at a yard sale in LA (do you want this honey? I got it for ten bucks) You have to love a man who’d buy 50 yards of fabric off a front lawn. It covered the sofa at home and the sofa at Wildfiber with quite a bit to spare. I love the combination of vivid brights grounded by a natural coloured background.
The hexagons were sewn together then stitched onto the linen with yarn. Doing so reminded me of embroidering on hessian the way we used to in primary school and I thought I’d like to do more of that some time soon. I added stripes of gros grain ribbon along the gusset for some extra sunshine.

The sewing together of the pillow was done on my machine, with a 38cm zipper along one edge.

When assembled it reminded me of Moroccan pillows and spawned a whole new set of ideas about more patch work cushions and another knitted one, this time in Koigu KPPPM multi-coloured merino with a tweedy wool fabric.

Below is the pattern for a hexagon. Mine are 14cm from point to point.  If you want smaller pieces you could use a thinner yarn or even stop short of my 66 stitches.

For the casing, I cut two 38cm diameter circles and an 18cm wide strip for the gusset.

I used:
Blue Sky Alpacas Dyed Organic Cotton in shades 607-lemon grass, 630-caribbean, 604-aloe, 627-flamingo, 617-lotus, 634-periwinkle, and 638-dandelion: small amounts of each.

Size 4mm double pointed needles.

Pillow Size: 38cm [15"] in diameter
Your choice of yarn will affect the size of the pillow.

HEXAGON [make 7]

With dpns, cast on 12 stitches. Distribute the stitches so that there are 4 on each of 3 needles and use one as a working needle.

Rnd 1: Knit into the back of all stitches.
Rnd 2: *K1, kfb; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 3: Knit
Rnd 4: Kfb in first and last stitch on each needle, and in the middle 2 sts of each needle.
Rnds 5 & 6: Knit
Repeat Rnds 4-6 until there are 66 sts in total, ending with Rnd 6.
Bind off loosely.

Happy knitting!

–Mel

I heard someone mention Christmas the other day. “I’ve started  knitting my presents,” said she. What a good idea. I wonder what she’s going to make, this sensible knitter who’s planning so far ahead. It makes sense to knit in summer for winter and in winter for the Christmas holidays but it never works out that way. I’m not usually so well organized. So this year I’m starting early, too.

Woollen gifts seem out of place for our summer Christmas so I though this little hint of the tropics would suit us better and possibly cheer up the dark months for northerners.

A little bird told me recently that intarsia is making a comeback. I hope so. I love the idea of knitting a picture. If you’ve never tried it, or it’s been a long time, you can get your feet wet with simple little motifs like this. Blue Sky Cotton is ideal for intarsia, since its stitch definition is quite forgiving. It’s one of the loveliest cottons around, comfortingly soft, a pleasure to knit and best of all, it comes in a range of stunning colours that work together beautifully.

One thing I’ve learned about intarsia is that it’s easier to work with long ends of yarn than bobbins. Tangles are unavoidable but you can easily pull ends of yarn through the clump and not have to bother with separating the bobbins, which can be frustrating.

Here’s the pattern for this, the first of my gifts. It doesn’t take long. You can complete the pieces in an evening.

Happy knitting!

FRANGIPANI PIN CUSHION

MATERIALS
Blue Sky Alpaca Dyed Cotton; 110g; 137metres/150 yds, 1 hank ea 639-Wasabi and 617-Lotus [2 hanks will make 2 pin cushions]
Size 4.5mm needles
Size 3.5mm crochet hook
Organic wool fibre for filling
2 buttons (optional)

GAUGE
16sts/24rows per 10cm/4”

MEASUREMENTS
13.5 x 13.5 x 5cm; 5.25 x5.25 x 2 inches 

PINCUSHION TOP

Cut 5 lengths of A and five lengths of B, each approx 150cm[60"] in length. 
With A, cast on 23 sts in A. Work chart (below), beginning with purl row. Work flower intarsia style, introducing cut lengths of A or B as needed. Twist the thread around each other when changing colours.

SIDE PANEL

With A, cast on 8 sts. Purl 1 row. *With B, work 2 rows stst. With A, work 2 rows stst.
Continue in stripe pattern from *, carrying yarns along side of work, until piece measures 18cm ending with 1 row in A. Bind off in A.

BASE
With A, cast on 23 sts. 
Working stripe pattern as for Side Panel, work 27 rows. Bind off. 

FINISHING

Sew in ends of intarsia and stripes.
Sew cast on edge of Side Panel to Bind off edge (or graft)
Pin one long edge of Side Panel to 4 sides of Striped Base. Sew on WS using a whip stitch, or crochet together on RS.
Fill with fibre.

Pin edges of Top Side with flower to Side Panel. Add more fibre filling if necessary.

Sew using a whip stitch or crochet.

Crochet 2 small circles, one each in A and B as follows:

Chain 3. Join in a ring by inserting the hook to the first chain, making a slip stitch circle. 
Work 8 single crochets into the circle.

Sew the two crochet circles, one at centre of striped base, and one at centre of flower, joining with thread if desired to give a cushioned effect.

Following on from last week’s Bunnykins yarn feast, I though I’d make a hat to celebrate rabbits. Beatrix Potter’s Peter, Benjamin and the Flopsies are the bunny versions of ourselves. They’re loyal, adventurous, loving, greedy, fearful, mischievous, and a little bit naughty, but in a nice way. Old Mrs Rabbit, Peter’s mother even earned her living from knitting rabbit wool mittens! 

Who doesn’t melt at the sight of a rabbit, except perhaps, farmers like Mr McGregor? 

Blue Rabbit Hat is for 4 sizes, from newborn to 2 years and is made in my favourite dk wool yarn: the soft, durable and masterfully hand dyed Koigu Kersti. I chose blue for the bunnies because it’s the colour of Peter Rabbit’s coat.

Here’s the pattern. Happy knitting!

–Mel

BLUE RABBIT HAT

YARN
Koigu Kersti Merino Crepe; 100% Merino Wool; 50g/110m; 1 hank ea, 2392(A) & 2300(B)

NEEDLES
Size 3.75 and 4.0mm double pointed

NOTIONS
Stitch marker
Pom pom maker

SIZE
1(2, 3, 4)
To fit: 0-3(3-6, 6-12, 12-24) months

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width
33(37,42,45,) cm; 13(14.5, 16.5, 17.75,) inches

Height
15(18, 20, 20) cm; 6(7.5,8, 8)inches

GAUGE
24 sts per 10cm/4” in stst on larger needles
32 rows per 10cm/4” in stst

ABBREVIATIONS
K Knit
Kfb Knit into front & back of stitch to increase
K2tog Knit 2 stitches together to decrease
St Stitch
Stst Stockinette stitch [all rounds knit]
P Purl
Psso   Pass the slip stitch over the knit stitch to decrease
Rnd Round

Make Bobble
Rnd 1: Knit front, back, and front of next stitch.
Pass these 3 sts back to Left needle.
Rnd 2: Kfb, k1, kfb, pass these 5 sts back to Left needle
Skp, k1, k2tog, pass these 3 sts back to Left needle
Slip 1, k2tog, psso. 

HAT

With smaller needles and A, cast on 80(88,100,108) sts.  Join in round taking care not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round. Change to larger needles.

Work K2, P2 rib for 3.5(4, 4, 5) cm
Size 2 & 4 only: Change to stst, increasing 2 sts evenly around– 90(110) sts. Work 8(11) rnds stst.
Size 1 & 3 only: Change to larger needles and work 6(11) rnds stst. 
Introducing B according the chart, work chart 8(9,10,11) times around hat, making a bobble to correspond with X on chart.

Knit 1(4,7,8) rnds.

Begin Decreases:
Rnd 1:  K4, k2tog, *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 14, & 16: Knit
Rnd 3: K3, k2tog, *k7, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Rnd 5: K2, k2tog, *k6, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Rnd 7: K1, k2tog,  *k5, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4
Rnd 9: K2tog, *K4, k2tog, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Rnd 10: K to 4 sts before marker, re-place marker for new beginning of rnd.
Rnd 11: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 13: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 15: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 17: [K2tog] to end of rnd – 8(9,10,11) sts remain.

Break yarn and thread through remaining sts. Pull tight.

FINISHING
Make a 6cm pom pom or size desired. Sew to top of hat.
Weave in ends.

 
Have you noticed that socks are having their heyday? They’re the new scarf. Remember a few years ago when all the new knitters were making miles of garter stitch scarves? Thankfully, we’ve moved on, and socks are the new It girl of the knitting world. Patterns abound on Ravelry, and there are quite a few books out, too, (I like Interweave’s FAVORITE SOCKS and Vogue’s THE ULTIMATE SOCK BOOK) as well as some old favourites like Spin Off magazine’s SOCKS.

Perhaps, though, there are too many choices, because I’ve heard  novices say they’re confused about what they should make, and how.They’re dazzled by the possibilities and a little overwhelmed by the advice of opinionated sock knitters who urge them to try their favourite patterns or techniques. Of these there are many: multi-coloured lace and cables, the use of 2 circular needles (instead of double-pointed needles), one circular needle with a loop, or even toe-up socks. All of these are wonderful options, but there’s nothing wrong with starting out on a pair of plain socks on double pointed needles. You’ll learn quite a bit about construction and shaping. 

For bewildered knitters who are in need of a simple pattern, I thought I’d add one to the mix. This is a basic pattern for any gauge and any size foot. It’s a template to use as a guide to make your own custom socks. 

Note: BE NOT AFRAID when you find you’ll have to– 

1. Use double pointed needles. They are a cinch, especially if you use bamboo, wood or plastic. If kids at the Waldorf Schools can use them, so can you. As for the old metal dpns you found in a thrift shop, do yourself a favour and don’t even try. They’ll make you crazy.

2. Make some decisions of your own, like which stitches to use, since you can begin with a combination of 1/1 rib for the top, and stockinette for the rest. 

The best thing about this pattern is that by using it for the stitch count ratios you can also make your socks as fancy as you’d like. You might even throw in your own lace pattern at some point. 

For my own socks above I’ve used Koigu kpm in three colours (1 of each) for the striped socks, and Koigu Kersti (2 of one colour, 1 of contrasting) for the two-tone socks.
Here’s the pattern. Happy sock knitting!
–Mel

HONEST TO GOODNESS SOCKS 

Use this pattern as a guideline to help you make your own custom socks. Choose the stitches you’d like to include in your sock, for example, would you like to use a 1/1  or a 2/2 rib for the top? It’s your choice. Bear in mind that the gauge is measured in the stitch that you will use for the body of the sock.

SUPPLIES

• 100-300 meters for children, 250-550 meters for adult sizes
• Set of 4 or 5 double pointed needles in size to obtain required gauge, plus a set of needles one size smaller
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle

 MAKING A SWATCH & DECIDING ON YOUR SIZE

1. To begin, make a swatch to figure out your gauge. This is the number of stitches per cm you will achieve with your chosen yarn and needles, in the desired stitch. Cast on 20 sts with the larger of the two sets of needles. Work in stockinette stitch for 15 rows. Bind off the stitches but do not cut the yarn. Lay the swatch flat (perhaps press lightly) and measure the width.

 Your gauge will be:

Number of stitches          =        
Width (in cm) of swatch

Fill in the guideline for your socks

Yarn:______________       Size of needles:________ Gauge:______________

2. Now determine the size of your finished sock:

Measure the circumference of your foot at the instep’s widest point and select the circumference 2 sizes smaller from the guidelines below:

To fit sizes:
2-4yrs (4-8 yrs, 8yrs-women’s S, women’s M, women’s L, men’s S, men’s M, Men’s L)

Finished foot circumference:
14 (16.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5)cm

Desired circumference of sock: _______

3. Using your gauge, calculate the number of stitches you will need to cast on using the following formula:

Desired circumference x Gauge =  ______ stitches

 Round this number up to the next number that is divisible by 4=______sts (A). This is the total number of stitches needed for your Sock.

You are now ready to begin your Sock. 

SOCK BODY

With one smaller size needle, cast on the number of stitches above using the knit cast on method for elasticity. 
Work one row in your desired edge stitch. Distribute your stitches evenly around 3 double pointed needles as evenly as possible. Place a marker to join the stitches in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches.
Work in your desired edge stitch for at least 5cm. 

Note:
Sometimes the stitches between the needles become looser than the other stitches, producing a ladder-like vertical chain of stitches. Although this resolves itself naturally during the first washing, to prevent it while knitting, make sure to knit the first stitch on each needle very snugly.

Change to stockinette(stst) and larger needles and knit all rounds until Sock is desired length to top of Heel. 

HEEL
For greater durability, you may knit the heel on the smaller needles, or knit a piece of sewing thread or fine mohair with the yarn. This can be repeated for the Toe since the toe and heel receive the most wear.

Beginning at the marker, knit across ¼ of A, the total number of stitches: ________sts

Pass remaining stitches on Needle 1 to Needle 2.

Turn work, and purl across ½ the total number of stitches (A)    ________ sts

Place remaining stitches on a holder (these will form the top of the foot)

At this point, to work the heel, you will be working on ½ the total number of stitches. 

HEEL FLAP
Row 1(RS): *Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2:  Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to end.

Note: it is important to work the first stitch of each Heel row as a slipped stitch. These will be the chain selvedge stitches mentioned below and will be used as a guideline for picking up stitches for the Heel Gusset.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2. Used the following formula to calculate the total number of heel rows to work:

Total number of Heel rows= ½ total (A) stitches= __________rows

There will now be the following number of chain selvedge stitches along the edges of the Heel Flap.

Total number of chain selvedge stitches = ¼ of total (A) stitches =_________(B).

TURN THE HEEL

Row 1: Knit across the following number of stitches:

¼ of total stitches(A) + 2 = ______sts, ssk, k1, turn work (you will be in the middle of a row)

Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise w/yarn in front, p5, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise w/yarn in back, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk (1 st each side of gap), k1, turn

Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise w/yarn in front, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3&4 until all Heel stitchess have been worked, ending with a WS row and p2tog, p1.

HEEL GUSSET
Knit across all heel stitches, and with the same dpn (Needle 1), pick up and knit the number of chain selvedge sts along the Heel Flap that you determined above(B) (_______sts). You may want to pick up some extra sts at the base of each gusset to help prevent a gap in the sock at this point. The extra stitches will be taken care of automatically in the decreases.

With another dpn (Needle 2), knit the stitches from the holder.

With another dpn (Needle 3), pick up and knit the number of chain selvedge sts you determined above(B) (_________) along the other side of the Heel Flap, then knit across half of the Heel stitches.

Each round of knitting now begins at the centre of the Heel. Place your marker.

Decrease stitches as follows:

Rnd 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1;  on Needle 2, knit across all sts; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end–you have decreased 2 Gusset stitches.

Rnd 2: Knit

Repeat Rnds 1 & 2 until you have the number of stitches you began with (A)_______sts.

FOOT
Work even in stst until piece measures from back of heel: 12 (14, 17, 19, 20, 20, 22, 23) cm or 3.5cm less than the length of your foot.

TOE
First calculate the following stitch count:

Total sts(A)/2=______________sts

Now round his number up to the nearest number divisible by 4.

New stitch count: ______________sts(C)

Rnd 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end–you have decreased 4 sts.

Rnd 2: Knit

Repeat Rnds 1&2 until you have obtained your new stitch count(C)(_______sts)

 Repeat Rnd 1 only until 12 sts remain.

Knit stitches from Needle 1 onto Needle 3–there will be 6 sts on each of 2 needles. Cut yarn leaving a 40cm tail.

FINISHING
Graft the remaining stitches together using Kitchener Stitch (below).

 
KITCHENER STITCH
Hold the two needles parallel with the tail coming out of the right side of the sock.

Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.

Bring threaded needle through front st as if to purl and leave st on the needle. Bring threaded needle through back st as if to knit and leave st on the needle. *Bring threaded needle through the same front st as if to knit and slip this st off the needle. Bring threaded needle through next front st as if to purl and leave st on the needle. Bring threaded needle through first back st as if to purl, slip that st off the needle, bring needle through next back st as if to knit, leave this st on the needle. Repeat from * until there are no stitches left on the needle.

When you have grafted all stitches together, take the yarn through to the inside of the sock, turn the sock inside out, and weave in the end carefully to secure it.

Weave in the cast on end.
Make SECOND sock!

 
Once again it’s the time of year when I ask myself:
Can I justify a new pair of boots? 
and
Why did I not start my winter knitting in January?

I think it’s no to the boot question. My 10 year old Fryes will live another winter.

And it’s not too late to begin winter knits, even though the glorious days of bare summer arms are already behind us. Here’s another easy-but-not-a-snooze neck warmer which will no doubt become this years’ favourite birthday gift.

This is a perfect project to sit in your handbag, ready for the time during your busy day when you’re able to snatch a moment of serenity. It’s also the ideal garment to add a touch more warmth to your outfit while you’re still wearing a t shirt. It feels like less of a commitment to winter than a scarf, so you can stay in denial a bit longer.

The stitch is an adaptation of one from Barbara Walker’s Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It has little clusters of stitches surrounded by open work, which makes it thick and airy all at once. 

I used Jade Sapphire 8 ply Mongolian cashmere and there was just enough in one skein. 

It’s one size, for adults or medium sized kids, and is worn here by Auriol. Here’s the pattern.

Happy knitting!
–Mel

BRAMBLE NECK COZY

Materials
Jade Sapphire 8 ply Mongolian cashmere (100% cashmere); 55gm,93m[100yds]; 1 hank 47-blueblood red
size 5.5 40cm circular needle
stitch marker
scrap yarn

Abbreviation
k3togtbl  knit 3 sts together through back of loops

Finished measurements
circumference: 42cm [16.5"]
length: 19cm [7.7"]

Pattern Stitch (multiple of 4) 
Rnd 1: Purl
Rnd 2: *(P1, k1, p1) into one stitch, k3togtbl; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 3: Purl
Rnd 4: *K3togtbl, (p1, k1, p1) into 1 stitch; repeat from * to end.

Technique
I-Cord Bind off
Cast on 1 st by knit cast on method; *K1, k2togtbl, pass 2 sts on right needle back to left needle; repeat from * to end. Bind off last stitch.

RECIPE
With scrap yarn, cast on 72 stitches. Join in round taking care not to twist.
Place marker.
Repeat rnds 1-4 8 times. 
Work I-cord bind off.
Take out scrap yarn from cast on round and place stitches on needle.
Work I-cord bind off.